Friday, 4 April 2014

She grew - Little garter gerkin - Slight Modification

She grew, this only take a couple of evenings so I whipped up another one, this time I did 2 x the CO number of stitched added to make a cross over flaps at the front, and some buttons to secure this. I was going to add some arms and make it a jacket but I ran out of yarn…I’ll do that for next winter maybe. I find this a really enjoyable knit, no pattern needed and garter short rows just looks so neat. A wrap is needed though so it isn’t holey!.
OH YES, I also added a little short row pleat at the back, more of an experiment, I should have done it twice as a bit for a proper kick - next time.

Sunday, 9 March 2014

Free Pattern: Robyn Booties

Robyn Bootie

Robyn Bootie is a textured bootie/slipper that can be knitted in any yarn, on any needles & with any gauge.  Like Robyn Hat (also from Bobbin & Purl) it uses an Icord to fit the bootie and is worked using a slip stitch pattern.  Robyn Bootie is knitted in one piece with only 4 ends to sew in & no seaming.  Like all my patterns this is a recipe rather than an exact pattern, I use standard sizes & tips on fitting so you understand the construction you could knit a family of these!
Robyn Booties are worked from an i-cord, which fits snuggly found the ankle.  Stitches are picked up around the edge and joined in the round. This is worked down a small distance before the front needle is knitted flat to make the front of the bootie.  You then re-join the round picking up the edge stitches and work back and forth picking up the edges as you work and creating the sole.

Any  5 DPN Needles
Any Wool (to match your needles)
Darning needle

You can knit these booties for any size, Ive added some standard  baby sizes charts which Ive adapted for this pattern but you could just measure the wearers foot for made to measure wonderfulness.  Proportions of an adult foot are quite different so I advise measuring!  If doing a child/adult slipper I advise you make the icord cross bigger.
Ankle Measurement cm
Icord Length (Ankle plus 6cm for cross pattern)
Front of foot cm (2/3 of the ankle measurement)
0-3 months
3-6 months
6-12 months

Create an I-cord to the length required for your size, cast on and Bind off with enough yarn left to sew in the ends on the finished bootie.  There are lots of excellent Icord tutorials online.  Attach yarn to show you the 3cm either side of the cord to make sure you pickup an even amount of stitches.

Pick up & Knit the stitches between the two markers onto 3 needles equally.  The first needle should start from the middle of the icord, this is centre of the heel and will stop any jog running down the front of your bootie.  I pick up all the stitches and then adjust to make sure they are equally distributed. Your needles will look like the picture below (the front section will have an equal number of stitches either side of what will be the booties cross detail).

Now work the following rounds 1-7 in the following slip stitch pattern. If knitting for a child or adult work down further, sorry I cant give you exact measurements here, the longer this section the further up the leg the slipper will come.

Abreviations (K (knit), SL (slip), P (Purl), BYTF (bring yarn to front), BYTB (bring yarn to back), P2tog (purl 2 together), K2tog (knit 2 together)

Round 1: Knit
Round 2: K1, SL1 (purlwise) Repeat to end.
Round 3: P1, BYTB, SL1, BYTF Repeat to end.
Round 4: Knit
Round 5: Knit
Round 6: K1, SL1 (purlwise) Repeat to end.
Round 7: P1, BYTB, SL1, BYTF Repeat to end.
Round 8: Knit to Beginning of the front needle (needle 2)

You are now going to work the front section in the flat till it measure the length of front of ankle to toe.  As this is worked in the flat you need to work in the following pattern.  Keep checking the length as the last set are slightly different believe me, being exact is not essential!  You slip the first stitch in each row as this will make them easier to pick up.

Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Sl 1* (You now need to look at the pattern and work as it presents), P1, SL1 (knitwise) * Repeat between * and * to end.
Row 3: SL1 * (work as pattern presents), * BYTF, P1, BYTB, SL1* Repeat * to * to the end.
Row 4: SL1, Purl all stitches

Continue this until the front flap nearly measures the length of the front of foot. On the last set complete using this pattern.

Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Sl 1* (You now need to look at the pattern and work as it presents), P1, SL1 (knitwise) * Repeat between * and * to end.
Row 3: SL1 * (work as pattern presents), * BYTF, P1, BYTB, SL1* Repeat * to * to the end.
Row 4: SL1, P2tig, P to last 3 stitches, P2tog, P1
Row 5: Sl1, K2tog, K to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1.

You are now going to pick up the edges of the front flap joining your work in the round on 4 needles.

1: Pick up all stitches as if working anticlockwise on your work.  All stitches should be picked and knitted.
2: knit the  ?  the stitches on needle 3
3: Knit the remaining ? and the first ? of needle 1 onto a new needle (forming the heel 1/3 of stitches.
4: Knit the remaining ? of needle 1 and pick up and knit the second front flap edge.
5: Knit the front of the toe. 
This is now the new start of your row.

Your needles should now look like this

You will now work 6 rows of garter stitch, because this is in the round, you will alternate between Knit and purl rounds.

Round1: Purl all stitches
Round 2: Knit all stitches
Round3: Purl all stitches
Round 4: Knit all stitches
Round5: Purl all stitches
Round 6: Knit all stitches, at the end of this row, before you turn the work slip the first stitch from the side needle onto the front needle then turn.

Now, this might seem tricky but you are going to work the sole stitches.  They are in a garter pattern and on each row you pick up a stitch from the side needles.  The first few rows will increase the number of stitches you decreased to shape the toe.

R1: Knit to end, Slip first stitch of side needle onto your work, turn.
R2: Knit to end, Slip first stitch of side needle onto your work, turn.
R3: Knit to end, Slip first stitch of side needle onto your work, turn.

You continue in this manner but so as not to increase the stitches you knit 2tog at the beginning of each row in the following pattern

K2tog, knit to end, slip first stitch of side needle onto your work.

You will work down the sole attaching to the top of the bootie.  When you get to the last row work as follows:

K2tog, knit to last st, add last side stitch & knit together.

Now your work will have 2 needles that have the same number of stitches on them at the heel.  Holding them together, knit each corresponding stitch to make one set of stitches.  Bind off all stitches.

Finally you sew in all selvage ends & sew the cross pattern into the front of your work, attaching to the wrong side, if you pull this tight enough the ends arent see as they slip into the work.

If you want an even better fit, then pick up the underside of the icord top and create a 1x1 rib pattern to hug the ankle in a  smaller needle.

Friday, 7 March 2014

Teaser....bobbins booties

I feel like all I've done recently is knit booties.   At last here is one I'm pleased with.  Doesn't look much here but on the foot it is really quite cute.  Pattern to follow later this weekend!

Soft Sweater Knits & Fibres: New free pattern! The Elder Tree Shawl

Isn't this the most delicious shawl....Oh goodness I need more time, I really want to knit this!

Soft Sweater Knits & Fibres: New free pattern! The Elder Tree Shawl: Hi loves, I've published a more intuitive version of The Lonely Tree Shawl . Finally you can make this beautiful pattern out of wha...

Thursday, 6 March 2014

Ponderings: Making is Connecting

Teaching a one off media class 4 years ago I came across David Gauntlet and his concept that making is connecting.  His fascinating lectures (an example in the link below) look at how through the open source nature of Web 2.0 (or the web as we know it now) you can feel more connected and engaged with the world around you.  So when you think about tradition media, like the TV, you are just sat watching, you are the audience, but when you think about social media, you are a creator as well as the audience.  If you post a photo on facebook people interact with that, and most of the time that is a positive experience that makes  you feel more connected with the people in your life.

Because the internet allows us to make more connections with like minded people we can take these relationships deeper, for example websites like Ravelry allow like-minded creatives to work collaboratively or just through inspiration.  This is a major success of the internet.

Another wonderful side of this making & connecting is open source content - or for non-techies - free stuff!!  In my quest to improve and develop as a designer I made the decision not to charge for my patterns, just to accept and absorb feedback.  This is working wonderfully, without the constraints of making my pattern perfect or developed enough to sell I can whizz through the learning curve and test patterns on the market.

But this is the thing I enjoyed most, the emails from grateful knitters thanking me for my free patterns, it feels wonderful, often they include details about who and why they will knit my pattern.  I have had several emails explaining my pattern will be used as a gift of love to someone recovering from an illness, or maybe to keep a precious head warm after chemo.  Every time I receive on of these messages I get a huge pull to my heart from where-ever this message was sent.  So, if you've never done so, I really advise you post something free online, make and connect with others and the best thing of all is it makes you feel amazing too.

Monday, 3 March 2014

Free Pattern: Lola Headband

Lola is a knitted headband that is textured with a simple slip stitch pattern and finished with a ribbed band.

This pattern is super-easy and quick to knit, with a nod to some retro styling it makes the perfect spring accessory to keep your ears toasty.

This pattern is also available in my ravelry store as a PDF

The headband is started in the middle where the slip stitched pattern is knitted in stockinette until it measure the size required.  The start and end are seamed together.  You then pick up all top stitches and work a ribbed band before repeating for the bottom edge.  Finally you neatly ruche the seamed join to create the pinched front. Main colour in this example is Grey. You use plain Stockinette for the first & last 3 stitches of each row so that picking up the stitches is easier.

Size 4.5mm circular needle
2 50g balls of DK (worsted) wool in 2 colours of your choice.
Darning Needle.

** Feel free to knit in any wool & needles, the band measures approximately 15cm wide, but you could make this wider or thicker, just remembering to cast on multiples of 3**

Slip Stitch Pattern:

CC Row 1: K3 *Sl1 K2 * (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches), K3
CC Row 2: P3 *P2, Sl1 * (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches) P3
CC Row 3: Knit all stitches
CC Row 4: Purl all stitches
MC Row 5: K3 *Sl1 K2 * (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches), K3
MC Row 6: P3 *P2 Sl1* (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches) P3
MC Row 71: Knit all Stitches
MC Row 8: Purl all stitches
CC Row 9: K3 *K1 Sl1 K1 * (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches), K3
CC Row 10: P3 *P1 Sl1, P1 * (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches) P3
CC Row 11: Knit all stitches
CC Row 12: Purl all stitches
MC Row 13: K3 *K1 Sl1 K1 * (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches), K3
MC Row 14: P3 *P1 Sl1, P2 * (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches) P3
MC Row 15: Knit all Stitches
MC Row 16: Purl all stitches
CC Row 17: K3 *K2 Sl1 * (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches), K3
CC Row 18: P3 *Sl1 P2 * (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches) P3
CC Row 19: Knit all stitches
CC Row 20: Purl all stitches
MC Row 21: K3 *K2 Sl1* (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches), K3
MC Row 22: P3 *Sl1 P2,* (repeat * to * until last 3 stitches) P3
MC Row 23: Knit all Stitches
MC Row 24: Purl all stitches
Repeat rows 1-24 to create pattern

K – Knit
P – Purl
Sl – Slip Stitch from left needle to right purlwise
1 x 1 Rib – K1, P1 (repeat to end, knit the same on next round)

Step 1: Slip Stitch Band
Cast on 30 stitches and work the Slip Stitch Pattern until the band fits around your head (standard head sizes can be found here: Bind of all stitches.

Step 2: Seam to create a round
Either sewing together or using another seam method, match each stitch from beginning and end and create a round headband.  Make sure your seam is on the wrong side!  I like to use this method of seaming:

Step 3: Ribbed band
Pick up all the stitches at the top of the headband, join in the round & complete 4 rounds of 1 x 1 Ribbed stitch, Bind off all stitches.  Repeat for the bottom of the headband.  A tutorial for picking up stitches can be found here:

Step 4: Ruche front
Using a running stitch and a darning needle sew down the front seam and pull into a ruched pinch.  I’ll be honest I do this a couple of times to make it nice and firm.

Step 5: Finish
Sew in all ends, steam or wet block gently, pop on your head & head off to smell the daffodils!

©Bobbin&Purl  Photo: Gina Jones Pattern: Lola

Sunday, 2 March 2014

Teaser: Simple Slip Stitch Headband

A little teaser of my next free pattern.  I recently been playing with slipped stitch patterns for sweater project I'm working on, and I love how easy they are, and how they create a far more interesting colourwork pattern than the skill require.  If you can knit and purl you will be able to knit this headband.  A perfect beginners project....pattern to follow later today (hopefully!).